Day 23 - Scotland West Coast - Scourie - Loch land supreme...

As I got closer to Scourie, the earth started flirting with me...and then it became something of a serious relationship. I've gone on before about how beautiful Scotland is, but it does seem that the further north you go, the better it becomes. So don't fall in love down south...you'll find true romance up north.

Here are some pics I took...they don't do the land much justice, so make sure you get to see for yourself this "forgotten corner of Scotland", as Richard Flannery of Eddrachilles Hotel likes to say proudly. I stayed at his fantastic hotel near Scourie...it is a real find. And perhaps one of the best values of my trip so far. Rates at £48 are very reasonable, considering the remote area, the standard of the service and rooms, as well as the superb food, cooked by Isabelle, Richard's French wife. I can't recommend Eddrachilles too highly. Get here. One of my nicest stays so far.

View of Ardvreck Castle...click to enlarge. This castle was built in the 15th Century by the MacLeods of Assynt (the name of the area). Some say that it's haunted...during the siege of the castle by the MacKenzies, the daughter of the MacLeod chief promised to marry the devil if he spared her father from the MacKenzie warriors. She then drowned herself in the loch once she realised the implications...

And another one of Ardvreck...click to enlarge

Another view on route to Scourie from Torridon...click to enlarge

And another...click to enlarge

And one more...click to enlarge

Day 23 - Scotland West Coast - Scourie - Make your own illicit whisky, bathing admirals and finding dolphins

I’ve been tempted by the tours at the established whisky distilleries, but for some reason I haven’t done one. Maybe it’s because I’ve always thought of whisky being made in the middle of nowhere, on the outer mudflats of the outer isles, by grumpy old Scotsmen whose accents are indiscernible. For the big brand whiskies, there are pamphlets galore in all the tourist centres, and here's a good website for twelve of the best-known.

So when I drove into the slightly delapidated village of Drumchork, and saw the humble sign pointing to Loch Ewe Distillery, partly hidden by some brush, I thought..."perfect!" And it turned out to be one of my top random experiences of the trip so far – and owner Johnny Clotworthy one of the best characters I’ve met.

Johnny used to be in the fire brigade, and his wife a property developer. They wanted to do something different, so they bought an hold hotel with a big garage and started making whisky, illicitly. Seriously. Well, not illegally, but Johnny makes whisky in the old-age tradition, when whisky was prohibited, more than 200 years ago.

He uses small stills and casks, and simple distillation techniques. All housed in an old garage. But if you're thinking that the bigger, flashier distilleries are making better whisky...then think again. Because Johnny's been on the judge's panel for Whisky Magazine, and in 2004 he was voted by the Scottish Licence Trade Association as Whisky Ambassador for the UK...which makes him the most knowledgeable whisky lover on the island which invented whisky.

And his adjacent hotel, which he runs with his wife Frances, was voted Whisky Hotel of the Year in 2001 and in 2006. They stock hundreds of different whiskies.

Best of all, though, for people who love whisky: Johnny runs a course where you can learn to make whisky yourself, under his expert guidance. Sign up here! As Johnny says of the course: "If you’re not Scottish by birth by the end of this experience you will certainly be Scottish at heart!"


"Scotland Forever" reads one of Johnny Clotworthy's tatoos on his arm. He is the UK's top whisky expert, recently voted Whisky Ambassador for the UK.

Loch Ewe Distillery near Drumchork...

After sipping on a few whisky samples with Johnny, I drove on to Scourie, one of the classic highland routes. Because of the rain yesterday I missed some great scenery, but today the sun was breaking through the clouds, and it revealed a smorgasbord of photogenic opportunities - landscape and people.

I drove past Kathy and her friend "Addy" (stands for Admiral). She was walking her bull alongside the road, taking him for a bath - both of them happier than ever.

Kathy taking "Addy" for a bath...

Another nice surprise was the Gairloch Marine Wildlife Centre and Cruises...they were fully booked, so I couldn't get onto one of their boats for a wildlife tour. But owner Sam French was super friendly, and they have a great visitor centre, with great views (they are presently building a look-out deck). Sam's husband is the guide as well as a qualified marine biologist, and is consistently involved in cetacean research around Gairloch. On the cruises you could see dolphins, whales, porpoises, basking sharks, seals and most seabirds - if you're lucky, hopefully a white-tailed or golden eagle.

Pic courtesy of Gairloch Marine Wildlife Cruises

Day 22 - Scotland West Coast - Torridon - Outdoor heaven

I stayed at The Torridon Inn, which is grouped with the more luxurious The Torridon, a very-high-end manor house with commensurate prices.

The Inn, though, is nice and low key, with functional, clean rooms, and the service and food are great – it was the AA Pub of the Year for 2008. The scenery is the star, though. It overlooks Loch Torridon, and across the water is the small hamlet of the same name. And everything is dwarfed by the mountain of Liathach, at over 1000 metres...which isn’t any higher than other mountains around here, except the highest point isn’t more than a few hundred metres from the loch’s water level. The gradient is impressive.

Loch Torridon...The Torridon Inn and Hotel gaze across this body of water...click image to enlarge.

Torridon’s Chris Wilson woke me up at 4am in the morning, and took my kayaking on the loch. No wind, orange sunrise, still water, looming mountains across the loch...it was worth the early rise. Soon the wind picked up though, and clouds drifted over. The weather can change very quickly, Chris explained. There is no protection between Torridon and the Atlantic. And the wind funnels through the mountains...it’s the start of the wild north of Scotland, which culminates at Cape Wrath, the most north-westerly point on mainland Britain.



Scotland seems to pride itself on adventure activities, and it’s a good call. Compared to the English coast, and parts of the Welsh coast, Scotland’s lochs and hills are practically unexplored. And the sheep and cows can’t get onto the steep slopes (most of the time) – something which will please true wilderness lovers. No matter how much I loved Wales, for instance, there always seemed to be a dry-stone wall half way up the mountain, or a farm field where there should have been indigenous flora.

In Scotland, there’s a bigger sense of the wild. And it makes mountain-biking, kayaking, walking and climbing that much more special. Just knowing that you can set off for a whole day on your mountain bike, and not see anyone else, is a powerful currency in the UK, where 50 million people inhabit England to the south. In Scotland, there are only 5 million people for a country that’s almost as big.

The Torridon is one of the few accommodation spots that offer the whole gamut of activities. And it makes things a bit easier if you don’t have your own gear, or if you’re new to the area, and want an introduction from someone who knows what they’re doing. Prices are a bit high for the usual things like walking, but for things like kayaking, you are kitted out with everything, including waterproof gear.

For a comprehensive guide to the adventure activities in this beautiful land, check out Visit Scotland's adventure website.

Day 22 - Scotland West Coast - Torridon - Rain but beautiful

Christian Drew from Corriegour Lodge Hotel had told me how beautiful the drive on the A87 north from Corriegour to Torridon was going to be. The road takes you through some quintessential highland scenery, past 10 lochs (called Lochy, Garry, Loyne, Cluanie, Duich, Alsh, Carron, Kishorn, Damh and finally – phew! - Torridon). You drive through the Glenshie Mountains pass – on either side are at least 15 “peaks” of around 1000 metres. Click to see on my Google Map.

It is wild, windswept, dramatic land...and to all these qualities, you could add rainy. Because it rained hard, and the water vapour was cruel – it let me see the outlines of a fantastic landscape, but no more. It was like watching a classic movie, but with a scrambled signal reception...you know it’s a great movie, you can hear the actors and make out some of the scenes, so you watch anyway – but you’re probably better off not watching at all, because it’s so frustrating.

I felt like this while driving to Torridon. For every drop of rain that fell, my photographer’s heart broke a little more. I could imagine how wonderful it must be to photograph this area when the sun shines. Maybe next time...

I got to the famously photogenic Eilean Donan Castle, hoping that The Big Photographer Upstairs would throw me a favour, but it was raining even harder...so please would you visit it for me? If you look at the photos of Eilean Donan, you’ll understand why I wished it was going to be sunny! It’s a superb-looking, movie-star castle. Don’t miss it.

Eilean Donan Castle...

The other must-do itinerary tick is Plockton village, an out-of-the-way, yet popular spot that’s in all the guide books for its white-washed houses. Click here to see where it is on my Google Map.

Day 21 - Scotland West Coast - Kinlochleven - Climbing ice...and mysteries on Ben Nevis

Before leaving Kinlochleven, I dropped by Ice-Factor, the climbing facility where visitors can learn how to climb on traditional indoor walls, but also on the unique ice-wall, which is kept cool inside a massive refrigerator about the size of a mini-warehouse. I took some video – check it out (will upload as soon as I find a good Internet connection in the Highlands!). Very cool (bad pun I know!)

Climbing on the ice wall at Ice Factor in Kinlochleven...

I also bumped into the Knight family from Northern Ireland, who were trying out the ice-wall. I got talking, and they had walked up Ben Nevis the day before (they said it was very busy on the route up – peak season.) Anyway, father Steve had taken some photos of the very rare and mysterious Brocken Spectres. Essentially, when conditions are exactly right, a strange halo of rainbow colours surrounds the shadow of a person. Check out the photos they took...

A Brocken spectre, taken by the Knight family on Ben Nevis...

Day 21 - Scotland West Coast - Spean Bridge - The gathering of the clan

After dinner, I was sent on my way to the clan gathering of the Camerons. Bear with me for a moment, while I dish out a bit of history (which may well need a bit of fine-tuning!)...in the 1740s, the Cameron Clan sided with the exiled Scottish king, and when he returned to British shores, the Cameron clan immediately threw their support in his direction. For that, though, they paid a heavy price. The English and their Scottish allies routed the Scottish loyalists, and the Cameron clan was particularly hard hit.

So once very eight years, descendants of the original Cameron clan gather in Achnacarry at the estate of the Lochiel of the Camerons – essentially the modern-day chief of the clan. A few hundred people spend four days in activities, music, socialising and dining.

I was fortunate enough to listen to some of the Gaelic music on the last evening of the gathering. There is poor Internet access up here in the highlands, and it makes uploading my videos from last night difficult, but as soon as I find a WiFi hotspot, I'll upload the lot...they are great! The videos include excellent bagpipe and Gaelic music, as well as informal renditions of popular Gaelic folk songs by the son of the Lochiel of the Camerons...as well as a great joke by the Lochiel of Cameron, about a drunk Scotsman (You’ll have to listen to it for yourself!)

Day 21 - Scotland West Coast - Spean Bridge - Scottish summers! And warm people...

From Kinlochleven deep in the mountains, just south of Ben Nevis, I took a day's drive around the area to the west of Fort William, towards Mallaig. The scenery is the same - monotonously beautiful. After a while, you're so inured to it that you have to remind yourself that this is some of the most atmospheric landscape in Britain.

But you don't have to drive this route...rather take the steam train Jacobite, which was voted as one of the most beautiful train rides in the world. It takes you from Fort William to Mallaig on the west coast, and back again. It's about a two hour ride either direction.

And certainly the summer rain adds to the moodiness of things. It's been a bad spell of weather the last few days. If it’s not rainy, the mist smothers the mountain tops. But I think I’ve just been unlucky, because I have come across other visitors who say that they’ve had glorious weather elsewhere in the Highlands. But do be prepared for rain during a Scottish summer. As one weather presenter commented on BBC Scotland, when giving the dire forecast for the week ahead: “This is Scotland, ya know!” Check out the BBC's weather forecast for Scotland, and you'll get an idea.

But, so what if it was raining?! It's part of the deal. And the Scots are famous for their warm hospitality - I've found that they've been wonderful, and I met one of the most welcoming and warm Scottish people at Corriegour Lodge Hotel, just a few miles north of Fort William and Spean Bridge, and only about 50 metres from Loch Lochy. Owner Christian Drew - a true blue Scottish lady - is crazily enthusiastic about her Scottish heritage, and it’ll rub off on you to the extent that you’re ready to don a kilt and eat haggis for the rest of your life.

Corriegour used to be an old hunting lodge, now a laidback-luxury, family-run spot, locally renowned for its owners’ passion and award-winning food. It’s perfectly suited to keeping warm and cosy. There’s a smooth, silent feel inside Corriegour, except for the crackling fireplace in the lounge which warms up the hands and spirits of the most rain-drenched tourist.

I dumped my things, because Christian (her name is a mixture of her parents, Ian and Christa), wanted me to hurry up and head off to the gathering of the Cameron clan, just down the road in Achnacarry. (More on that in the next post...)

Before I left to see this uniquely Scottish occasion, she sat me down in the dining room, which has the best views in the building. The Lodge is elevated on a hill, and looks through a few trees, across the road and onto a wonderland of water, heather and mountains (and a fair bit of mist too!)

Christian’s son Ian is the expert chef (and co-owner), and the meals are certainly reason enough to stay at Corriegour. All ingredients are sourced locally. Along with my stay at Castle Cottage in Harlech, the food at Corriegour was the best I’ve had. Check out one of the sample menus...

Room at Corriegour Lodge Hotel...


Video of the comfiest lounge in Scotland...imagine getting warm here in the middle of winter, while looking over a loch and drinking whisky.

Day 19 - Scotland West Coast - Kinlochleven and Fort William - Don't mess with these guys!

While I was staying in Kinlochleven, I drove the 30 miles to Fort William, just to the north. I wanted to see the Braveheart Games. It’s a mini-version of the traditional highland games that are held every year in Scotland. Men resembling mythological Scottish giants - some say they are at least 8 feet high, and over 150 kg - compete against each other in one of the oldest competitive forms of sport known.

The events include:

- shot-putting (probably the best known event, and similar to the Olympic event);

- hammer throwing

-“over-the-bar” throwing (which involves hurling a 26kg weight with one hand backwards over a bar set at about 13 feet. The presenter at the games – himself once a competitor - liked to compare the weight to that “of a seven year-old child”). The record is an amazing 18 feet 7 inches, thrown by Dutchman Wout Zylstra in 2000.

- caber-tossing, the most popular event for the crowds (the competitors throw a tree trunk end-over-end, weighing anywhere between 100 and 200 pounds and a length of between 14 and 22 feet).

The caber toss is won – not by how far the competitor throws it – but how accurately the tree trunk falls on an imaginary clock-face, once it’s gone end-over-end. Twelve o’clock is the goal, and minutes to and minutes after are judged by a referee. The closest throw to twelve o’clock wins! It apparently takes years of practice to get right – there’s obviously a lot of technique involved.

Check out the videos from last night...it lasted three hours, cost only £5, and was entertaining all along. There were also girls performing Scottish highland dancing, and a bagpipe band, of course!

Day 19 - Scotland West Coast - Oban - The road north

The road from Kilmartin takes you through the quaint town of Oban, one of the more popular tourist spots in the highlands. I didn’t find it that special, but I did only pass through. There is the popular Oban distillery, which offers tours, as well as boat cruises from the harbour, with SeaLife Adventures, Oban Wildlife and Craignish Cruises (which can take you to the fascinating Corryvreckan natural whirpool off the island of Jura).


Pretty Oban harbour, on the way north from Kilmartin to Fort William. Click on image for full screen version.


Border Collie sheep dogs aren't only found on farms in Scotland. Here's an Oban local with his human side-kick.


And not only do big, hairy clansmen play the bagpipes...another Oban local busking on the street.


Brings a new meaning to "straight into the pot"!

Day 19 – Scotland West Coast – Kinlochleven – Into the dark light of the lochs

After Oban, my destination was Kinlochleven, a tiny village at the dead-end of Loch Leven, deep in the mountains just south of Fort William. The mountains lord over the narrow sliver of water below. To the south is the peak of Bidean nam Bian, to the north is Ben Nevis, at 1344 metres the highest mountain in the UK.

These Scottish "peaks" - most of which are under 1000 metres - aren’t that high in world terms (the Himalayas hosts several over 8 000 metres), but they seem big. When you’re at the water’s edge of the loch, and look up, they look ominous and intimidating. The steep gradient is perhaps the trick – the ground rises quickly from Loch Leven – it would be very difficult to hike straight up these slopes. But there are great walking routes which follow the streams and valleys...check out this excellent site for walks in the area.


There's a strange light in The Highlands that I've never seen before - bewitching but also beguiling. It's hard to explain, but it's a kind of "dark" light, if you know what I mean?! These photos are of Loch Leven, where the movie Rob Roy was filmed.






Click on the image for a full screen version...

Waterfalls abound, and because it’s been raining now for two days, they sound like a symphony of bass drums. And the loch is very narrow, only a couple of hundred metres at its widest, so you feel like you’re wedged in. It’s dramatic. Don’t miss it.

What’s peculiar about the coast in Scotland is that you can be seemingly entrenched in the mountains, twenty miles from the “sea” and still be on the coast...Loch Leven, for instance, flows into the bigger Loch Linnhe, which in turn flows into the Firth of Lorn, which in turn eventually becomes the Atlantic Ocean. So even though Loch Leven is probably 90% fresh water (I'm guessing here), technically, I could jump onto a yacht, and sail 40 miles through lochs and firths, until I reach the “ocean”. It’s all connected.

The village of Kinlochleven isn’t particularly pretty itself – it’s definitely not ugly either. It used to host an aluminium smelter, closed in 2000, and it was powered by a hydro electric plant further up the valley. But you'd never guess there was any type of industrial activity. The area has been completely restored to an eye-poppingly beautiful and pristine state.

The south road along the loch to Kinlochleven undulates up and down the side of the mountain, while the north road hugs the waterline. A round trip will be 20 miles – it’s the most beautiful drive yet on my trip. Look out for the turnoff on the A82 about fifteen miles south of Fort William.

I am staying at MacDonald Hotel, a country and family hotel on the north east end of the loch. It’s just outside the village, and is an ideal spot from which to go exploring. There’s no fussing over guests – you can be left alone to your own devices, and come and go as you please as if it is your own home.

But you don’t really want to be indoors in a place like this. Outside is spectacular Scottish scenery – make the most of it. There are plenty of walks which are signposted, and the village is on the route for the West Highland Way, one of the iconic treks through the Ben Nevis range, and 153 km long.

If the weather really is that bad, and you can't get outside for fear of death, there are two good reasons to stay indoors.

First, Kinlochleven is home to the world’s biggest indoor ice-climbing wall at The Ice Factor, in the middle of the village, and just a three minute walk from MacDonald Hotel. It’s won a few awards for its innovative development, and is a very slick operation, with shop, cafe and climbing lessons. When I was there, kids and adults of all ages were giving it a go under supervision of the climbing instructors. There are also three or four normal climbing walls, with varying degrees of difficulty. It’s reason enough to check out Kinlochleven.

Then, if you're a beer fundi, then there's another reason to visit the village. Atlas Brewery is based right next door to Ice Factor. They are a small microbrewery, making real cask ale for the local pubs. It's right on the river, and they offer free tours every evening.